Manufacturer of Innovative Products
Manufacturer of Innovative Products
Please follow the trouble-shooting steps below to help you diagnose the issues you may be encountering.
After installation, your vehicle will not start no matter which direction toggle switch is flipped.
ISSUE:
Double-check that you have replaced the correct “Starter Relay” or “Fuel Pump Relay“.
If you mistakenly replace relays such as “Ignition“, “Run-Start” relays–your vehicle may not run normally because these relays also control functions required when the vehicle is running (not just starting).
They ‘may’ initially give you the result of your vehicle not starting; but may have strange side-effects.
SOLUTION:
A: Be absolutely certain you ONLY replace the Starter or Fuel Pump Relay.
POSSIBLE SOLUTION:
Car manufacturers will use the same relays throughout the fuse box–it’s easy to accidentally plug in the Bypass Relay into the wrong slot. Please double-check that you have the right relay location.
IMPORTANT: We strongly recommend pulling the Factory Relay; then trying to start your vehicle. If it starts normally and/or if you hear your Starter Motor trying to crank, then you have the wrong relay removed.
Your vehicle should NOT start if the correct Starter Relay is pulled (or Fuel Pump).
POSSIBLE SOLUTION:
A solid ground is critical to the function of the Kill Switch. The Kill Switch passes very little current–not enough to make the jump over even a little oxidation or grease. **All connection points MUST be on bare metal clean of grease, oxidation and paint–even if connected directly to the battery terminal, it must be cleaned.
We suggest using sand paper to completely remove the paint and clean the area afterwards with alcohol or brake cleaner (even just a little grease can prevent a solid connection).
NOTE: A bad ground may NOT always show itself as not working and have unusual and intermittent side effects. We strongly recommend sanding down to bare metal as shown below.
**Because there is VERY little current passing through this wire, it does not have the power to jump over even a tiny bit of oxidation, grease or paint on the connection surface. **
POSSIBLE SOLUTION:
It is rare but sometimes the internal connector pin inside the barrel of the waterproof connectors may have come loose. They may look fine from the outside, you will need to pull on each of the wires coming out of the connectors to see if they pull loose.
Ensure the Toggle Switch’s wiring is connected: Black wire to black wire, Red wire to Red wire. The two wire pairs need to be separated, NOT all connected as a single wire.
IMPORTANT: You can use any other SPST type switch or pushbutton; however, if wiring to an aftermarket AUX panel or your vehicle’s built-in Switch Panel, the Switch must have a path to ground. Some AUX panels only have positive switching which will not work with the Kill Switch (you must wire in a separate relay to provide path to ground for the Kill Switch).
POSSIBLE SOLUTION:
Sometimes the pins on the relay are not making contact with the internal connectors in your fuse box. You may need to gently/slightly bend the relay’s pins inward just a bit in order to make contact.
POSSIBLE SOLUTION:
If you have checked all of the above, then your fuse box may require a REVERSE Bypass RELAY. Your KIT may have included a reverse relay (the relay’s casing will have “Reverse Relay” printed on the sides); unplug the installed Bypass Relay and swap out with the Reverse Relay.
If your Kit did NOT included a Reverse Relay, please Contact our support team and we’ll ship out a replacement for you to swap out. **Please make certain you have checked all the above solutions prior to requesting a reverse relay**
The toggle switch could be defective. To check, please disconnect the toggle switch and then tie the Black and Red wires together–then try to start your vehicle. If it starts, then the toggle switch (or your aftermarket switch) is bad.
The default Kill Switch Toggle uses -Negative ground activation–while most AUX switches (both aftermarket and OEM built-in) use +Positive activation, thus you will need an additional Relay to be switched by your AUX switch to provide the Kill Switch’s bypass relay a path to ground activation.
You find that your vehicle has abnormal issues with the engine running as it did before.
ISSUE:
A: The Bypass Starter Relay is not getting enough power or intermittent power and so the internal armature is not closing all the way (or intermittently).
SOLUTION:
A: If you have the ground wire to chassis, make certain it is making contact with newly cleaned bare metal. There cannot be ANY paint, oxidation or grease because it uses VERY little current and does not have the power to jump over these resistances.
We HIGHLY recommend a direct connection to the negative Battery Post (again, making sure the connection point there is clean as well).
**Also make certain the crimp connections are solid as well; give them a light tug on the wire to crimp connection.
ISSUE:
A: The pins (legs) on the Bypass Relay may only be making partial connection with the fuse box’s internal contacts.
SOLUTION:
A: Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, give the pins (legs) of the relay a minor axial twist (5-10 degrees only). This will help it push onto the female contacts within the relay slot to make a more solid connection. **You may notice a more snug fit whereas it was more loose before.
You find that your vehicle has abnormal issues with the engine running as it did before.
ISSUE:
Double-check that you have replaced the correct “Starter Relay” or “Fuel Pump Relay“.
If you mistakenly replace relays such as “Ignition“, “Run-Start” relays–your vehicle may not run normally because these relays also control functions required when the vehicle is running (not just starting).
They ‘may’ initially give you the result of your vehicle not starting; but may have strange side-effects.
SOLUTION:
A: Be absolutely certain you ONLY replace the Starter or Fuel Pump Relay.
After installation, you find it takes longer to start your vehicle / cranks longer before starting.
ISSUE:
Because the Kill Switch disables the Starter Motor, some vehicle’s computer may not automatically disable the Fuel Pump motor; so as you keep cranking to start–the Fuel Pump continues to pump more fuel into your engine and thus flooding your engine with excess fuel. This is the reason why your engine is struggling to start as it tries to clear out the excess fuel.
SOLUTION:
A: Be certain to deactivate the Kill Switch prior to starting your vehicle.
B: Alternatively, you can move the Bypass Relay over to the FUEL PUMP position instead of the STARTER. This will ensure your vehicle will not flood the engine going forward. The bypass relay will work in the Fuel Pump position if it is the same relay type.
After installation, the starter motor continuously runs even though you are not pushing the start button or turning the key.
WRONG RELAY REPLACED:
You may have mistakenly replaced the STR PINION instead of the STR MOTOR. The motor constantly cranking is direct symptom. Please check your fuse box diagram again and make certain you replaced the correct relay for the STARTER MOTOR.
If you are certain your installation is correct, it is possible the armature arm inside the relay is stuck.
Please Contact our support team and we’ll ship out a replacement for you to swap out.
ISSUE:
Because the Kill Switch (when activated) prevents power from reaching your vehicle’s Starter Motor (or Fuel Pump motor); your vehicle’s computer may incorrectly interpret this as a problem with your Starter Motor.
SOLUTION A:
Remember to disable the Kill Switch before attempting to start your vehicle–so that the computer never sees the Starter Motor as having an issue.
If you do accidentally try to start your engine with the Kill Switch activated (and the check light comes on); you may have to cycle your vehicle a couple times (i.e. shut off engine, restart again) to clear the error code (check engine light).
If issue continues to occur, Contact our support team and we’ll ship out a replacement for you to swap out.
ISSUE:
After installation, cabin interior light comes on/stays on. This is highly unusual and should not occur if the installation is correct. This is most likely caused by a wire short somewhere in your installation. A wire could have been run up against a engine part (which melted the wire insulation) or against a hinge which could fray the wire–thus causing the short.
SOLUTION A:
Please double-check your installation; tracing all wires from origin to destination for any melted wire insulation or frays. Also check that the ground wire is properly ground and not loose.
If issue continues to occur, Contact our support team and we’ll ship out a replacement for you to swap out.